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The Rift Valley floor at the lakeshore is almost at sea level but the bordering plateau rises to between 1600ft and 5000ft. The highest peaks in Malawi touch 10,000ft while the Lower Shire Valley (pronounced Shiray) in the south is at a meagre 500 ft. These great contrasts help to make the landscape of Malawi one the most varied in all Africa. The scenery, including its cloak of vegetation, presents an ever-changing vista. Such is the great size of Lake Malawi and the narrowness of the Rift Valley, that there is little space for lakeshore plains. In north Malawi, between Nkhata Bay and Livingstonia, the Ruarwe Scarp marks the very edge of the Rift Valley, plunging over 5000ft from the Viphya Highlands straight into the lake. Further south, in central Malawi, there are plains but rarely do these extend more than 15 miles from the shoreline. Here and there are floodplains, often farmed but occasionally flooded in the rainy season. Shallow depressions, called dambos, characterise some of the lowlands. The Lake itself is a great inland sea, some 360 miles north to south and up to 50 miles wide. Much of the time this tideless, freshwater lake gently laps the golden beaches which surround it. But on rare occasions it can show its anger in a fierce storm. Its fish-rich waters are home to the mbuna, colourful tropical fish in greater abundance here than anywhere else in the world. To the south, Lake Malawi drains into the River Shire which flows over 300 miles along the Rift Valley floor. On its way to join the Zambezi, the Shire tumbles over rapids and falls as well as flowing quietly across broad plains. Away from the Lake and the Shire Lowlands, much of Malawi is part of the Central Africa Plateau. This gently undulating land, where not farmed, has a natural vegetation of deciduous woodland – brachystegia, acacia or combretum. Rising to even greater heights are Malawi’s true mountains: the
whaleback plateau of Nyika and the mountainous Viphya in the north,
the Dowa Highlands in the centre and, in the south, the two great
massifs of Zomba and, highest of all, Mulanje, Central Africa’s
grandest peak reaching over 10,000ft. The Great East African Rift Valley, of which Malawi is a part, has
been home to man from the earliest days of Homo sapiens. Many of today’s
Malawians are descendants of the Bantu people who moved across Africa
and into Malawi for hundreds of years up to the fifteenth century. The great explorer-missionary, David Livingstone, is intimately connected with Malawi’s history and there are many sites and monuments to be seen which remind today’s visitors of this. As Dr Livingstone was helping to put an end to slavery, the country was becoming increasingly under European influence. The British Central Africa Protectorate (later to become Nyasaland) was established in 1889. After World War II the pressure for independence grew, led, from 1958, by Dr Hastings Banda. In 1963 Banda became independent Malawi’s first Prime Minister and, later, Life President. His autocratic rule lasted until 1993 when Malawians voted for a change to a multi-party democracy. A year later, Dr Bakili Muluzi, leader of the United Democratic Front, became the country’s new President and he successfully fought a second democratic election in 1999. The people of Malawi are accurately described as the friendliest on
the continent. It is they who make this country the Warm Heart of
Africa. The big five (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino) can be seen in Malawi as well as a splendid range of antelope and other smaller cats such as caracel and serval. Hippos are to be found in large numbers, so much so that they are almost symbolic of Malawi’s prolific wildlife. The variety of fish, some 500 species, to be seen in the Lake Malawi National Park is unequalled anywhere else in the world. Malawi’s birdlife is renowned. Best known is the fish eagle to be seen at the Lake and along the River Shire but, as with the Lake’s fish, the range of species is breathtaking. A safari in Malawi is sure to be a memorable experience; plenty of game but none of those convoys of 4x4 vehicles characteristic of some other African game parks. Perhaps the best way to see the game and experience the total environment is to take a walking or horse riding safari, both well catered for in Malawi. In addition to the game parks and reserves, Malawi has a number of forest reserves and uplands where one can commune with nature. Some may require fairly strenuous climbs, as on Mount Mulanje, but many more provide simple walks in surroundings of incredible natural beauty. It is this beauty which visitors to Malawi retain as their outstanding
memories of the country. Whether it be the vast Lake Malawi or the
quiet cedar forest of Zomba, there is always something to delight
the eye. Many of the uplands have viewing points from which to see
across countless miles of varied and magnificent landscapes. Even in the so-called wet season, the rains are usually short-lived storms, as is typical of the tropics, and at no time does the climate seriously inhibit the traveller. Much of the country is at an altitude which keeps potentially high temperatures down to very acceptable levels. Only in the lower Shire valley can temperatures become unpleasantly high, and then only in the summer months. Although the period May to October is often described as the ideal time to travel in Malawi, the rainy season is attractive for the displays of orchids on Nyika plateau, for birdwatching in some of the Reserves and for seeing Malawi’s vegetation at its most lush. The main drawback of a visit in the wet season is in driving the dirt roads including those within the game parks. It also has to be borne in mind that, as everywhere, game viewing is best towards the end of the dry season. Temperatures vary from below freezing (at night on the high plateaux in winter – July) to 38°C/100°F (in the Lower Shire Valley in summer –December). To generalise is difficult but through much of the year, and in regions visited by travellers, temperatures during the day are usually in the mid-20sC/mid-70sF. In the short hot season, November-December, maximum temperatures may rise to the lower 30sC/upper 80sF. Lake Malawi’s surface temperatures vary from about 24°C/75°F to 28°C/82°F. Rainfall varies greatly. Some years in the early 1990s were exceptionally dry. Really high figures are rare. Parts of the Lakeshore can receive 50 to 60 inches a year but Lilongwe’s and Blantyre’s figures are less than half that. As said before, much of the rain falls in short but heavy bursts North Malawi The north of Malawi has been described as the country’s forgotten region. It has a different character from the rest of the country and this is recognisable in its scenery, its people and even in its politics. Except for that part of the region which is occupied by Lake Malawi, the north is characterised by its great highlands. Most magnificent of all is the Nyika Plateau, towering to no less than 8000ft. The rolling landscapes of the centre of the plateau are described as whalebacks but the edges of this granite core are scarp-like especially where, in the north-east, it forms the edge of the Great Rift Valley. The other great highlands area is Viphya. This undulating plateau rises to 6000ft although some peaks stretch a further 1000ft higher. West of the Viphya Highlands are the Mzimba Plains, a modest 4500ft
high and drained by two large rivers, the South Rukuru and the Kasitu
which effectively separate Nyika from Viphya. On the borders with
Zambia and with Tanzania, in the north, other significant ranges
include the Malingu Mountains and the Misuku Hills rising to over
7000ft and 6500ft respectively. Two other settlements of size and note are the market centre of
Rumphi, on the road to the northern game parks, and Karonga on the
northern lakeshore. Karonga has an interesting but turbulent history.
It was a centre for the notorious nineteenth century slave trade. Nyika is wonderful for trekking, horse riding and mountain bike safaris, as well as more conventional 4x4 excursions. The montane vegetation attracts large numbers of antelope from the diminutive duiker to eland and roan. Zebra are common. The park has one of the highest densities of leopard in Central Africa and there are a number of species of smaller mammals such as warthog and bushpig. Elephants and buffalo usually keep to the lower ground on the northern edge of the park but lions and elephants have recently been seen on the high plateau. For the birdwatcher, the park has a lot to offer: over 400 species have been recorded. The rare Denham’s bustard and the wattled crane are among those to be seen, as is the red-winged francolin - endemic to Nyika. There is such a lot to see in the vast park: waterfalls, a neolithic
rock shelter, trout pools and even a ‘magic lake’ are
just some of the attractions. The recently refurbished Chelinda
Camp and the brand new log cabin Lodge provide excellent accommodation
and facilities. There is an airstrip for fly-in safaris. The reserve has a wonderful mix of vegetation: forest and grassland,
thin woodland and marsh. It is this rich habitat which attracts
a splendid range of birdlife. Nearly 300 species of birds have been
recorded including stork, heron and the white-faced tree duck. Herds
of thirty or forty elephants are regularly to be seen and there
are large numbers of hippos. Lake Kazuni, near the main entrance
to the reserve is famous for its hippos. Buffalo are present in
the reserve but their roaming habits make their sightings less easy
to predict. As on Nyika, there are plenty of smaller mammals. VIPHYA HIGHLANDS Central Malawi Anyone staying in the Central Region and not venturing outside its limits could be forgiven for being unaware that the region is actually part of the Central African Plateau. Gently undulating landscapes give the area the appearance of a plain and its altitude of some 4000ft is not immediately evident. Only in the east, close to the Lake, where the plateau forms the edge of the Great Rift Valley, do its occasionally steep sides reveal the truth. The plateau is crossed by numerous rivers making their separate ways to the Lake and, here and there, isolated hills, called inselbergs, punctuate the gentle landscapes. North-east of Lilongwe is Dowa, a steep–sided plateau adding another 1000ft to the general altitude. To the south a narrow upland rib forms the border with Mozambique – this is the Dedza Highlands. The scenery in Central Malawi is less dramatic than elsewhere in
the country but it has the same attractive variety that makes Malawi
a wonderful place to tour. Its importance stems largely from the
fact that its regional centre, Lilongwe, is also the national capital.
This, and the pivotal position of the region, give central Malawi
a status which distinguishes it from the rest of the country. There are a number of first-class hotels in Lilongwe and Le Méridien Capital Hotel, Sunbird Lilongwe Hotel and Sunbird Lingadzi Inn are some of the best known. Other towns of note in Central Malawi include Kasungu and Dedza. Both are close to Malawi’s main north-south road (M1) which runs through Lilongwe. Kasungu, to the north, is at the junction of Routes M1 and M18. It is also close to the point where the new road to the Zambian border meets the M1. The M18 gives access to the Lake, via Kamuzu Academy. Dedza, to the south, is noted for its pottery and a short detour from the M1 is well worth making to view, and possibly purchase, some of its products. Mchinji is on the Zambian border, west of Lilongwe, and is the most
frequently used gateway between Zambia and Malawi for travellers
by road. Accommodation in the reserve is currently very limited and simple.
Safaris in the reserve can be arranged by some of the lakeshore
lodges in the Nkhotakota area. This is a park which is relatively easy to drive around. There is a newly upgraded lodge at Lifupa as well as good camping nearby. Because of changes in management, the current accommodation situation should be checked before a visit. Access to the park has been greatly improved in recent years and it is relatively easy to reach from Lilongwe (approx. 100 miles). Information Sheet 5: South Malawi South Malawi is a region of physical contrasts. Much of the area
is dominated by the River Shire (pronounced shiray) which snakes
its way southwards from the Lake still running through the rift
which is occupied by the Lake. The river falls some 1300ft from
its exit from the Lake to the point in the south where it crosses
into Mozambique. This fall brings it to just 125ft above sea level.
On its journey southwards, the Shire crashes over falls and rapids
(which hindered David Livingstone’s upstream journey in the
past) but has its more leisurely stretches though broad plains.
South Malawi is certainly not all plains and valleys. This is the region of central Africa’s highest peak, Mount Mulanje, which rises to nearly 10,000ft. Impressively, Mulanje is only seventy miles from Malawi’s lowest point, just over 100ft. Not too far from Mulanje is the region’s other great massif, the Zomba Plateau. This table-like mountain is over 6000ft above sea level with sheer scarp-like edges. To the west of the Middle Shire Valley is the continuation of the Dedza Highlands and to the east is a high ridge, the Shire Highlands, a plateau area standing at 3300ft. Blantyre stands on this plateau but is surrounded by isolated peaks which stretch to over 5000ft. The Lower Shire Valley is a broad flat plain of which there are excellent views as one descends the Thyolo escarpment from the plateau on the southern route out of Blantyre. Much is cultivated, including sugar estates, and the scenery greatly contrasts with that in any other part of Malawi. A national park and two game reserves are to be found here. At the southern end of the valley is Elephant Marsh, once the home of thousands of elephants but now famous for its birdlife. This natural marsh changes in size as rainfalls fluctuate. One day it may be drained to provide agricultural land. Without the cooling effect of high altitude, the Lower Shire Valley
is where Malawi reveals its tropical location by high temperatures,
especially in November-December. Both Blantyre and Limbe have interest for the tourist. These include such attractions as a major museum, a church with Livingstone connections, some interesting old colonial buildings and, of course, a good range of shops, markets and services. Blantyre has its own international airport at Chileka. Just forty miles north of Blantyre is Zomba, former capital of the country and seat of government. In a beautiful setting below the plateau of the same name (see below), this was the first settlement of the colonial administration. It has some interesting buildings such as the old Gymkhana Club, the barracks of what were the King’s African Rifles (now the Malawi Rifles), a small botanical garden, the old parliament buildings, and one of the country’s State Houses. Zomba is home to the University of Malawi. There is simple accommodation in the town but the Plateau is often the choice of tourists. Two other towns of note are in South Malawi: Liwonde, Balaka. Liwonde
is a busy market and route centre to the south of Liwonde National
Park and north of Zomba. It is close to a large barrage across the
River Shire which controls water flow down stream. Balaka is on
the road M8 which is part of one of two possible routes between
Blantyre and Lilongwe. It has a very interesting modern cathedral
and is an important trading centre. Wildlife includes quite large numbers of elephants and the river
attracts countless hippos and crocodiles. Antelope include kudu,
sable and bushbuck. There are lions and leopards and, more recently,
the black rhino has been re-introduced. Birdlife is exceptionally
varied. The river attracts fish eagles and weaver birds build their
nests in the thin woodland. Pel’s fishing owl is often seen
at dusk along the river’s edge. There is a new road to the top of the plateau. The former ‘up-road’
is no longer used. Accommodation on the plateau includes a recently
rebuilt luxury hotel, the famous Le Méridien Ku Chawe Inn,
set at the very edge of the mountain, and a large camping site.
The Zomba Forest Lodge has now been privatised and offers simple
accommodation at great value. Fly-fishing for trout is possible
in season and horse riding can be arranged. Once on the mountain the vegetation changes with altitude and there’s
plenty of wildlife from the klipspringer, a tiny antelope, to various
other small mammals and, of course, a variety of birds. The latter
include buzzard, the black eagle and countless white-necked ravens.
Fishing for trout is possible in the River Lichenya which drains
the south-western slopes. Near to the centre of the Lower Shire Valley is Sucoma, an enormous
sugar estate where the cane is grown mostly under irrigation. This
large scale cultivation can be viewed from the main road (M1) which
runs the length of the valley. Alternatively, it is possible to
arrange a conducted visit. The Sucoma Sports Club, on the banks
of the river, offers accommodation to non-members. Lake Malawi occupies one fifth of the country’s total area.
It is the third largest lake in Africa. Its approximate dimensions
are 365 miles north to south and 52 miles broad, hence the sobriquet:
“the calendar lake”. The Lake drains an area larger than
Malawi itself yet, surprisingly, only one river, the Shire (pronounced
“shiray” – the old spelling) flows from it. Eventually,
the water spills into the Indian Ocean via the River Zambezi. The Lake, in the north, is quite extraordinarily deep: 2300ft, plunging well below sea level. This reflects the enormity of the natural faulting of the Great Rift Valley which is the origin of the Lake itself. For much of the year the Lake is placid, a gentle giant, but, especially when strong winds blow north or south, it can become an angry monster. Because of its potentially rich harvest of fish, the Lake plays an important part in the country’s economy. Fishing villages are scattered along the length of the lakeshore and the traditional industry and practices are an attraction to visitors. Access to the Lake is possible along much of its length but it should
be noted that it is usually necessary to take a short detour off
the main roads in order to reach the beach. Despite the attraction
the Lake has to settlement, there are long stretches of totally
uninhabited golden sand lakeshore. On the southern lakeshore is the evocatively named Monkey Bay, but
the visitor is more likely to see signs of industry rather than
monkeys. This is a little Lake port with a sheltered harbour behind
the Cape Maclear headland. It is a construction and repair centre
for the Lake’s limited shipping. Seventy miles further north, and on the Lake, is Nkhotakota. Often, but confusingly, described as the largest traditional village in Africa, Nkhotakota is rich in history. Visited by Dr Livingstone in 1863, it was then a major centre for the slave trade. From the lakeshore here, tens of thousands of slaves were shipped across the Lake and then force-marched to the coast. The slave trade, with its strong Arab connections, has meant that the Muslim faith is well represented in today’s town. In 1960 Dr Banda chose Nkhotakota for his first political rally on his release from prison and prior to Malawi gaining its independence. A further thirty miles north is the settlement of Dwangwa which
is split in two by the M5 road. This is very much a company town
greatly influenced and determined by its giant sugar estate but,
by the lakeshore, is a fishing community. A popular activity is kayaking which can be combined with a safari to some of the off-shore islands where there is excellent accommodation, run by Kayak Africa. A new operation, Danforth Yachting, now offers cruising on the Lake in a luxury yacht as well as a beach lodge. Fishing is also popular and local fishermen will usually be pleased to co-operate with the hire of a boat and expert advice. Some of the hotels offer boat trips on the Lake or simply a speedboat ride out to the many islands just off shore on which are colonies of birds. For the more adventurous, there is the Ilala Lake steamer which
sails between Monkey Bay and Chilumba. Details should be checked
before planning a trip because of its somewhat erratic schedules. Likoma’s claim to fame is its cathedral (the size of Winchester’s) on which work began in 1903. This vast building has some most interesting features including stained glass and carved soapstone. The island is otherwise somewhat barren although it has some pleasant
beaches. Nearby is another tiny island, Chizumulu, also Malawian
territory. Access to Likoma is currently by boat or charter aircraft.
Accommodation on Likoma is limited but includes a new very attractive
beach lodge, Kaya Malawi for the Budget Traveller Ask 100 people on the streets of London, Sydney or Oslo where Malawi is and at least 75% of them will look at you blankly. Malawi’s major drawcard that it is a well kept secret for “those in the know”! It doesn’t have the major wildlife attractions that most of its neighbours such as Tanzania & Zambia boast. Nor does it have the tourist infrastructure that Zimbabwe and Kenya can claim, for example, you can’t Bungee-jump or paraglide. But what it does have which none of its competitors can touch is wonderful crystal clear Lake Malawi. One of the largest freshwater inland seas in the world, the lake is, 352 miles long and 52 miles wide. The lake is fringed with beautiful sandy beaches surrounded by enormous forested mountains that seem to sink straight into the water. It has been described as more Caribbean than African in vibe, very laid back and chilled the perfect place to unwind if you have been on those long dusty African roads for a while. Whilst relaxing on those beaches you will really see the uniqueness of the country and its people. The people of Malawi are truly the country’s strongest asset. Full of smiles and laughter, going back to the basics, this is why you are here.Beyond the beaches, Malawi offers stunning scenery, forest reserves, isolated hills and the fantastic highland wilderness area of Mount Mulanje and the Nyika Plateau. These deep valleys, sheer escarpments and dramatic peaks, offer some of the most enjoyable hiking & mountain biking routes in Africa. Malawi’s compact size is another advantage. The distances between places to see and visit are never too far. Add to this a system of roads, which are by no means perfect, you are bound to find the unexpected adventure. The general lack of hassle is yet another asset, making Malawi a great place to start. This is beginners Africa, for those of you that want to experience the real Africa but don’t want to put yourself through hell in doing so. Then Malawi is for you. E NTRY |
